The first hint that this journey would be unlike anything I’d experienced came long before we reached our first remote village. It was the moment I stepped aboard the Paspaley Pearl, a vessel whose elegant lines and understated luxury set the tone for an expedition designed not for spectacle, but for deep immersion.
She felt more like a floating boutique hotel than a ship—polished timber, soft lighting, warm brass accents—yet carried the quiet confidence of a vessel built to go where few others can. And expedition into these remote areas we did.
Life aboard the Paspaley Pearl
Each morning began the same way: the aroma of freshly ground coffee drifting across the Horizon Deck. It was day one onboard, and Brooke, the ever attentive stewardess, already knew my coffee order by heart.
Soft light filtered over the water, and the gentle breeze whispered adventure as we repositioned for the day’s exploration. The crew moved with the easy professionalism that only comes from years on the water—anticipating needs, guiding landings, ferrying us by zodiac to hidden beaches or village shores.
The daily logistics were seamless. While we slept, the captain steered us through island clusters with names that felt like whispered secrets. By breakfast we’d be anchored off another untouched shoreline, the zodiacs already in the water, the expedition team briefing us on cultural protocols or the natural history of the next stop. This was travel without friction—access to the inaccessible.
And when you were not off the boat adventuring, there was plenty on board to keep you entertained. The expedition crew for starters, had informative talks, fun games and even moments for wildlife viewing. The jacuzzi on the top deck was a highlight for cooling off in the afternoons with a cocktail in hand, while ample seating positioned all around the ship offered vantage points to relax and just take in the views.
As for the Staterooms and Suites, you would not feel like you were on a ship. They were stylish and spacious, with one of the biggest bathroom and shower I have seen on a ship. My Horizon Suite came with a balcony, with a small table and chairs, it offered a private space to sit outdoors and relish in the sublime location.
And the food. The culinary team produced fine dining that exceeded every expectation—delicate dishes, plated with a finesse that wouldn’t be out of place in Sydney or Melbourne. Breakfast was always served with a side of incredible views out to the islands and beyond in the fresh air on the Horizon deck, along with lunches that filled you with fuel to adventure through the day. Multi-course dinners showcased the chef’s talent, and paired with fine wines, made every night felt celebratory.
Sailings through Papua New Guinea’s Hidden Treasures
The Paspaley Pearl, a sleek and nimble expedition vessel purpose-built for remote exploration, became our gateway into one of the most untouched corners of the Pacific. Over twelve remarkable days, she carried us through Papua New Guinea’s Hidden Treasures—from the historic shores of Samarai and the mission-storied paths of Kwato Island to the crystal-clear Deboyne Lagoon, the colourful cultural displays of Tuam, the dramatic volcanic fjords of Tufi, the artisan communities of the Tami Islands and the vibrant coastal hub of Madang.
Designed for adventure yet offering the comfort of refined dining and warm, expert hospitality, the Paspaley Pearl allowed us to slip quietly into remote anchorages, access wild reefs and seldom-visited villages, and experience Papua New Guinea the way few travellers ever can: up close, unfiltered and deeply connected to the land and sea.
Samarai & Kwato Islands
Our first ports of call were steeped in history. Samarai, once known as the “Pearl of the Pacific,” felt suspended in time—weathered colonial houses, bright hibiscus tumbling over fences, and residents whose quiet pride in their island’s heritage was palpable. Nearby Kwato Island, with its mission-era buildings and peaceful tree-lined paths, offered a gentle introduction to PNG’s layered past.
It was here that I first felt the expedition’s magic: arriving not as tourists, but as welcomed visitors.
Deboyne & Nivani
Sailing into the Deboyne Lagoon was like slipping into a dreamscape—water shifting between turquoise and ink-blue, perfect coral gardens beneath us. But the most striking moment came while snorkelling above a Japanese Zero fighter plane from the 1942 Battle of the Coral Sea. Coral now clung to its wings, small fish darting through its fuselage. History and nature intertwined in a way that left all of us speechless.
Trobriand Islands
The journey to the Trobriand Islands, often called the “Islands of Love,” brought an entirely different kind of magic—one shaped by complex cultural traditions and an environment humming with life. It was our first glimpse of the colourful traditional dress you can expect from Papua New Guinea. We were welcomed by the rhythmic beat of drums and dancers adorned with shells, feathers and vibrant plant dyes, their choreography echoing ancient stories passed down through generations. The Trobriands offered an unforgettable blend of culture and nature, where every encounter felt like stepping deeper into a world shaped by tradition, community and the wild spirit of the land.
Here, the children played in and out of the water and showed just as much curiosity for us as we did them. I took time to speak to the mothers in the group about their daily lives, and I learnt about their tradition of Kula. This ancient ceremonial exchange system links more than a dozen island communities, including those in the Trobriands, through the gifting of shell valuables—red bagi necklaces and white mwali armbands—circulated in opposite directions across the sea. Far more than simple trade, the Kula fosters alliances, reinforces social status and strengthens inter-island relationships that have existed for centuries.
Tufi
Nothing prepared me for Tufi. Towering volcanic fjords draped in rainforest plunged sharply into mirror-still water. We paddled through the narrow channels in outrigger canoes carved from single logs, guided by locals whose families have lived along these fjord walls for generations. The silence was profound—broken only by the dip of a paddle or the call of a hornbill overhead.
This was PNG at its most cinematic, and the Paspaley Pearl felt impossibly small beside such grandeur. By far this stop was my highlight of the journey.
Morobe Harbour
Tucked along a stretch of Papua New Guinea’s northern coastline, Morobe Harbour revealed itself as a serene, wildlife-rich refuge framed by dense rainforest and glassy water. The harbour felt untouched, almost primordial, with mangroves curling around hidden inlets and volcanic ridges rising watchfully in the distance. Until we went ashore and discovered a village teeming with life.
Again, we were greeted with performance and dance by both men and women’s group. I was particularly intrigued by one young lady who had an entire Bird of Paradise bird as a head dress, beak and all.
Exploring Morobe offered a rare chance to witness PNG’s biodiversity in its purest form, far from any settlement or commercial footprint. It was a place that reminded us that the wild still reigns in vast, quiet pockets of this country.
Tami Islands
The Tami Islands were a celebration of craftsmanship. Master carvers invited us to see their handicrafts – gorgeous carved shells, masks and bowls were laid out in a central market area. We learned how they create ceremonial bowls and totems from local hardwood, each piece infused with community meaning.
A very large contingency of dancers performed, and by far, they were the most decorated we had seen so far. Giant masked men bounced around as their grass skirts swayed to the rhythmic movement. We were invited to join the dancing at one stage and I jumped at the opportunity to get involved. After all the dancing, we had time to roam around the village and I found a mother and her boy to show me their home and what made their village so special.
Tuam Island
Tuam was where colour and energy took centre stage. We were greeted by dancers whose costumes shimmered with natural dyes, shells and feathers. Drumbeats echoed across the sand as we followed villagers through their community—tidy houses, laughing children, and we were welcomed as if we belonged there. This was a place where tradition was not merely preserved, but lived.
I took the opportunity here to purchase a few handicrafts from the little stalls the women had set up for our arrival. A bilum (traditional woven bag) and a few wooden carvings were my souvenirs to remember my journey.
Before leaving Tuam, there was a much cherished opportunity to snorkel and I literally dove in without hesitation. There was a drop off from the reef just meters from the shoreline and the marine life was impressive. I even spotted a turtle and black tipped reef shark cruising the depths.
Madang
By the time we reached Madang, the expedition felt like a rhythm we’d all mastered. The town radiated life: markets piled with betel nut, woven bilums, tropical fruits; outrigger canoes gliding across the harbour; volcanic islands rising just offshore. Madang was the perfect blend of urban pulse and natural splendour, a reminder that PNG’s diversity extends far beyond its remoter fringes.
A journey only possible by expedition ship
What stayed with me most was not just the beauty of each stop, but the sense of privilege in being able to reach them at all. The Paspaley Pearl navigated reef-lined channels and tucked into tranquil lagoons that larger ships could never approach.
We visited communities that see only a handful of outsiders each year. Every landing felt like an exchange—stories shared, laughter echoing across the sand, mutual curiosity dissolving the perceived distance between cultures.
By the time we had to say our goodbyes, the ship felt like home and the crew like old friends. Papua New Guinea had worked its quiet spell on us: raw, unvarnished, impossibly rich in spirit and beauty.
Exploring PNG’s Hidden Treasures aboard the Paspaley Pearl was not just a journey; it was a revelation—a reminder that the world still holds places shaped by culture rather than commerce, wonder rather than rush.
Discover more about Pearl Expeditions and the journeys through Papua New Guinea and beyond at pearlexpeditions.com
All images credited to Kate Webster
